When in Israel, the options of what to explore are virtually endless. From Caesarea on the Mediterranean Coast to Qumran in the West Bank to the City of David in Jerusalem, the country is a veritable wonderland of history and archaeology.
On a personal level, the place that made the biggest and most lasting impression was Masada National Park.
Masada: The National Park
Even if you know nothing about its past, Masada is visually stunning. Located in the Judean Desert beside the Dead Sea, it is a natural plateau, 450 meters above sea level, and is accessible by both cable car and two pedestrian trails, “The Snake Path” and “the ramp trail”. Once atop, visitors can explore the remains of the palaces built by King Herod and even look out over the mountains from what would have been his bedroom balcony. Sound and light shows take place twice a week from March until October and campgrounds complete with toilets, showers and cooking corners are available for those wanting to enjoy a unique overnight experience.
Deemed a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001, the story of what took place at Masada almost two millenniums ago is inherent to the emotional experience a visit here evokes. It is a tale of tragedy, of how 960 Jewish rebels took on thousands of Roman troops, refusing to succumb to defeat and ultimately sacrificing all.
Masada: The History
In 66 C.E., the Great Revolt by the Jews against the Romans took place. A group of Jewish survivors, led by Eleazar Ben Yair, fled Jerusalem (which ultimately fell in 70 C.E.) and gathered atop Masada. They built a community here in what used to be Herod’s palaces and were able to survive for some years.
But the Romans were not willing to let this arrangement continue. Within a few years of the destruction of Jerusalem, some 8,000 troops surrounded the base of Masada. The remains of some of the eight camps they set up, including that of their commander Flavius Silva, can still be seen from the plateau.
In order to penetrate the fortress, the Romans built a ramp up the side of the immense rock, using Jewish slaves for the task. The benefit of this was twofold; most obviously for the manual labour, but also for psychological reasons. Ben Yair and his community could fire down stones on those building the ramp, but they would have to attack their own people in the process.
Eventually, the Israeli community atop Masada had to face the realization that the Roman troops, who sent a battering ram up the ramp to destroy the wall of the fortress, were going to overpower them. But rather than accept a fate of slavery to their enemy, they chose instead to die a free people. Holding a “lottery” they selected ten men who would take the lives of the women and children; one of these ten would be appointed to kill the other nine and, ultimately, himself. Ten stones inscribed with names were found in excavation projects that took place on Masada; believed to be the morbid lottery stones by which the men who had the horrific task ahead of them were selected, they are on display in the final room of the Yigael Yadin Museum at the park’s entrance.
Learning from Josephus
How is it that so much is known about these two thousand year old events? First-century historian Josephus Flavius recorded the events as relayed to him by two women who, along with five children, hid in cisterns during the mass murder/suicide, escaping the tragic death that Ben Yair and his followers preferred to slavery. Although the works (and indeed, character) of Josephus are often regarded with a degree of suspicion, many of the archaeological discoveries that took place on Masada through the 20th century support his recounts.
More Recent Accounts of Masada
To learn more about Masada and its dark history, there are a few resources available. A 1981 miniseries (appropriately titled “Masada”) starring Peter O’Toole as Flavius Silva and Peter Strauss as Eleazar Ben Yair may be a somewhat glamourized account of the story, but it’s a great introduction to the history and general events that took place there. Also recommended by local expert and former director of the Ministry of Tourism, Tsion Ben David, is the book “Masada: Herod’s Fortress and the Zealots’ Last Stand” by Professor Yigael Yadin. Professor Yadin was leader of the major excavations of Masada in the 1960s and is the namesake of the park’s museum.
Standing on top of the once palatial fortress, looking out over the ramp from the spot where the battering ram struck its mark and signified the end of hope for those 960 rebels, one can’t help but feel a little shiver. The place itself is simply magnificent, not to mention the view. But what really makes the indelible impression is the knowledge that, more than a place, Masada is a symbol: a symbol of the resilience and determination to preserve one’s freedom…even to the point of death.
Ramona Zacharias - Ramona has been a freelance writer for ten years, focusing on arts, entertainment and pop culture, with a more recent dabbling in travel. ...
